Depuy Canal House: A Stone House Frozen in Its Past

There’s nothing worse than seeing a legendary restaurant lose its way...attracting diners by boasting its stellar past, rather than the dishes it produces. Almost every Manhattanite will agree with me that there are many of them in New York.

Such is the story of the Depuy Canal House in Hudson Valley, NY. It is the region’s pride and joy, a stone house that has been serving food in one way or another since 1797. Located just two hours north of Manhattan, the restaurant received rave reviews from newspapers such as The New York Times and has been labeled as a “must see” in various Hudson Valley guidebooks.

Excited about its reputation for its innovative use of local products (its menu is prix fixe, changes daily), I visited the restaurant last March.

In short, the restaurant fell short of expectations. While the salmon I ordered was cooked well, the fish was drowning in a bland, orange, creamy sauce, which was said to have a “Japanese influence.” As a result of the slow wait staff, the dish was served room temperature. Perhaps more disturbing was that the same orange sauce was used to flavor my dining partner’s pasta dish. And though the dish was more palatable than the salmon, it did not deliver on the originality that so many write-ups have promised. Instead, it was reminiscent of pasta served in a sub-par Italian fast food restaurant found in the middle of Times Square.

So disappointing was the food that the slow service added fuel to our fire (we had a 20 minute wait between our appetizer and main course). In the end, with our water glasses empty, half eaten dishes sitting in front of us for awhile and an absent waiter, my partner and I decided to throw in the towel, calling an end to our dining experience at the Depuy Canal House. We paid and left the restaurant, even before our dessert was served.

One can only hope that the restaurant fixes its flaws and returns its attention to producing innovative dishes. The stone house and colonial décor are charming, but legacy can only take a restaurant so far. It must be reminded, that it’s the food—not its reputation—that’s the star.

More on the Depuy Canal House:

Chowhound
The New York Times
Yelp Customer Reviews